your standard "still working but junk" power supply will net you a fiist full of wire, some voltage regulators, a heat sink, at least 1 good fan, a couple big caps, some other random electronic components, a handful of molex connectors for fans, or a nice +- 5v, +-12v and 3.3 volt bench power supply that can handle 10+ amps! scrap the motherboard and you end up with MORE voltage regulators, connectors and swag, and if the case is at least ATX, well there you have a perfect platform for your pimping case mods, all for the cost of stopping the diptards at work from tossing that Pentium II thats been in the closet for over a decade, which equates to "hey let me have that!", as its headed to the dumpster OK, about the hemostats and or needle nose pliers. Something to splice 1 thumb and 1 finger per hand Hemostats or needle nose pliers and maybe some gloves (see below) Wire stripping utensil Solder Soldering Iron Insulating material (heat shrink tubing recommended) let me go off on a green note for a moment, my wire was scavenged from an old computer power supply, if you see anyone throwing away an old pc, snag it, its LOADED with wire thats good for jumper wires on your veroboard, or ribbon cable witch is also good for jumping, but since its tiny it works well with smd devices ect. 1) the are "hard" (and I claim shenanigans!) The pro's of inline splices are 1) They are almost invisible, and look professional 2) They do not redirect the wires natural flow, going from point A to point B is just as simple as if you had the chance to place a wire from point A to point B 3) Since there is no bends in the wire, there is no chunks to manage, which is especially handy in tight situations or where you do not have a lot of wire to waste (ie: repairing wires in a vehicle) 4) they are really strong, even without solder bonding them (keeping in mind that they are not permanent, stress and vibration will eventually disconnect them without solder) 1) They are ugly 2) They redirect the wire 180 degrees, so going from point A to B requires a sharp bend 3) After making that sharp bend you have this chunk of pigtailed wire flopping about, usually with a nice wad of gooey black tape, and sometimes a zip tie to act as a strain control 4) Since the connection is 180 degrees (or going the totally opposite direction) without some form of strain control, all it takes is a stout yank to sheer the connection (even with solder), altho honestly this is an extreme con The pro's of pigtail's are 1) they are "easy" Inline splices is where you take two pieces of wire, and join them in a nearly seamless extension of wire Inline the issues with inline splices are. When shrunk, the crump section is secured and the adhesive melts and hardens to create a water-proof seal.Ä«utt Splice is an irradiated, thermally stabilized heat shrinkable, dual-wall sleeving that comes in crimp splices for 26-8 AWG wire, Nyax Wire Terminal for capping open wires, and a butt connector version of the latter, Nyax Wire Connector.In this instructable i will teach you how to make a perfect inline wire splice, every time What is an inline splice? Well, if you work with any type of electrical wiring, and need to join 2 pieces of wire you have 2 choices, pigtail or inline Pigtail splices are when you hold the 2 pieces of wire, one end going up, the other going down, and twist their stripped ends together. To use, slip the end of the wire or wires into the crimp until they're overlapping, then squeeze with pliers to close the crimp.Ä«uyHeatShrink's high temperature butt splices add an extra level of security to the mix with a layer of 2:1 heat-shrink tubing around the crimp that has an adhesive in the middle. It's used to either terminate a wire that comes to an exposed end or to join two more more wires together. Although it sounds like some procedure that a celebrity would have done in a secretive Beverly Hills clinic, when it comes to wiring, a "butt splice" is a fairly common connection used in electrical work that falls under the category of crimp connectors.
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